MY PICKS FROM ESXENCE 2017

At the beginning of this short text I really need to thank the organizers of the Esxence 2017 for excellent organization and for giving me the opportunity to participate as press. This blog is just my little personal space to write with love about my passion for scents. I’m really happy my passion was recognized by the people from Esxence. This, maybe small, gesture means a lot to me.

Just like the title says in this short text I will write about my personal picks from Esxence 2017. My personal picks are fragrances I liked for some reason. Their molecules left an impact on my soul. They are not categorized in some order, thus there are no winners or losers. In my eyes, they are all winners. Some of mentioned scents will be reviewed in my posts to come.

UNUM

Unum is a very special niche brand from Italy, and must say they had a unique concept. Their booth was mostly filled with the structure that evokes a tobacco bag of the photographer Mario Giacomelli. There were no fragrances in the booth, just in a pockets of the assistant’s black apron. This visual presentation I liked the most. Simple, urban, easily recognizable and effective. An excellent job. The Unum fragrances are beautiful in a bizarre way. Their premiere fragrance, LAVS is one of the best incenses I have ever tried. Strong, but somehow easy to wear. Their latest release, Io non ho mani che mi accarezzino il volto is dedicated to Mario Giacomelli’s photo series of the same name. They even organized an exhibition of these photographs at 10 Corso Como gallery that I have attended also. The creation itself is a big tobacco fragrance. I am pretty sure it will be highly discussed in fragrance community and on this blog.  

INSTITUTE TRES BIEN

And now something completely different... Institute Tres Bien is known for their colognes. Cologne is a historic and rigid genre. I must say Institute Tres Bien colognes were absolutely amazing. Cologne a l’Italienne was vivid, crisp and substantial. So happy creation. Their latest creation Tres Russe is a stronger reinterpretation of their Cologne a la Russe, but a totally new creation. It is warm, easy to wear and possesses good manners. A beautiful scentrack for dinners or evening outs with friends. Tres tres bien... Soon I will write more about this creation.

RANIA J

Rania J is a brand I have encountered for the first time. I must admit I love the whole line. All fragrances are story of their own. I am not fond of oud. I consider it as a note that kills all other possible sparks of creation in a fragrance, but Oud Assam was marvelous. It took me back in my childhood and my great-grandfather’s stable for horses. Oud Assam is definitely not something I would wear, but I appreciate it. T Habanero is another great tobacco I have enjoyed. So colorful and warm. Cuir Andalou is a stunning leather fragrance that I would wear easily. If you have the opportunity, please do check Rania J fragrances. They are liquid art.

MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is a very well-known niche house. It was founded by Jean Laporte, the man who invented niche. Their portfolio is huge, but well balanced. I personally in every their fragrance can sense some scent of the beautiful past. Like some aristocratic touch. In this crazy world today I am glad I can find some better past. MPEG had just released a new version of the legendary Santal Noble. Yes, it is changed, but not radically. It still possesses that spicy sandalwood refinement, but just a little bit cleaner. I’m glad I have the possibility to review this 2017 version.

CHAUGAN

Chaugan is a relatively new French niche house. I admit, until last week I have never heard of them. They have released several interesting fragrances this year – Royal Cannabis, Fleur de Pavot and Terre de Perse. Royal Cannabis was very interesting to me, although at that moment did not remind of cannabis. Unfortunately, they haven’t got any tester at their booth, but please check this fragrance. It is on my list to smell it again.

SAMMARCO

Giovanni Sammarco seems like a very nice person. It’s not usual to see the owner and perfumer at a counter, and personally present the creations (Gerard Ghislain of Histoires de Parfums was another one). I had a nice chat with him, and it is great to hear the backstory from the man who created the fragrances. All his creations are very modern and exceptionally blended. Alter and Naias were my choices from his line. Interesting person and interesting line.

MILLER ET BERTAUX

Miller et Bertaux is a little bit wacky Parisian brand. Their creations are hypermodern and possess some chemical charm, of course, in a very good way. Personally from their line I really liked their home fragrance called Atom. It was complex like a regular fragrance, and personally I would wear it on my skin. Funny brand. I will check them more in future.

MAX BENJAMIN

If you are into home fragrances, do not hesitate to try Max Benjamin. Max Benjamin is an Irish brand from Wicklow, specialized in home fragrances. Their fragrances are more complex than some perfumes, and their visual art is very attractive. I strongly appreciate they produce alcohol-free fragrances. Their assistant Jean-Marc was really helpful, and I really enjoyed in their calm atmosphere. Exceptional home fragrances.