Scentrack
Bobby
Caldwell – What You Won’t Do For Love
When I bought my bottle of Dior Homme ten
years ago I was not a perfume enthusiast. Still, I felt something special that cold
winter evening while trying this fragrance. I felt for the first time a 3D
depth of scent cloud. Dior Homme and later Fahrenheit Absolute were the
catalysts for my passion reaction.
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| Source: senatus.net |
In 2005 Olivier Polge created a part of
fragrance history for Dior. Dior Homme was innovative, refined and bold at the
same time. It was not a classic example of male perfumery, but the new
definition of contemporary. The use of strong iris note for men was a
trailblazer for many brands. To this date most of contemporary designer fragrances
owes something to Dior Homme.
Dior Homme opens with Earl Gray bergamot
and a touch if herbs, but immediately blown away by posh and luxurious iris
note. Classic lavender (an ode to classic French perfumery) has resisted for some
time, but the iris have been just too strong. Decadent, golden, and velvety
iris just dances on my skin. I especially like some pale fruity undertones
under this iris explosion, like a dry fruit aquarelle. Darker and sweeter cacao
note introduces some gourmand tendencies. Cacao combined with patchouli, amber,
but especially soft leather leads the golden iris into a warm and comforting
base. The base gives me a soft tobacco touch.
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| Source: dosilife.com |
The bottle designed by Tsutomu Kiyama is a
masterpiece. The commercial campaign with Jude Law was brilliant. Dior Homme
should be taught at universities. I am not going to discuss current campaign
with Robert Pattison.
Dior Homme is a masterpiece overall.
Unfortunately, Polge’s version is discontinued. However, current Demachy’s
version is still very good. A little bit more masculine and direct, but I still
prefer soft and refined nuances of the original. Dior Homme was a prince, but time
has shown is ready for the coronation. The best in 21st century to
this day. Nowadays, Olivier Polge is the in-house perfumer for Chanel, and I am
eager to see his new masculine creation for Chanel.
Longevity / Projection
Solid (6-8 hours) /Average
Suggested wearing
Formal, Evening Dinners / Autumn, Spring
Alternatives
Dior Homme (2011) – still very solid, with
more lavender
Dior Homme Intense – a more gourmand take
on the theme, impressive as well
Valentino Uomo – a semi-gourmand take on
the same theme but nothing impressive
Zara 9.0 – nice late Dior Homme copy
Pros
Impressive in composition
Refined, yet distinctive
Compliment getter
Great looking bottle
Cons
Discontinued
A victim of his own success – too many “hommages”
nowadays
Rating
10/10
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