Scentrack:
Incognito – Summer’s Ended
Long time no see. Unfortunately, due to my
business obligations, I haven’t had a time to test fragrances and write some
reviews. Finally, I am on my holidays, and is there a more appropriate
fragrance than Eau de Mandarine Ambree to write about?
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| Source: Hermes |
Eau de Mandarine Ambree was released five
years ago as a part of the Les Colognes Hermes series. The perfumer behind was legendary
Jean-Claude Ellena, the master of meticulous fragrant touch. Although the name of
the fragrance suggests a mandarin-based creation, personally I found it more clementine
than mandarin. Clementine shares the same sweetness with mandarin, but possesses
an additional green aspect possibly from a special kind of seeds. This
clementine is hyper realistic, strong and has slightly synthetic touch. During
10-15 minutes clementine gradually morphs into sweeter and more tropical phase.
I have to admit, if hadn’t looked at the note breakdown before, I wouldn’t identify
it as passion fruit. This transition is very smooth and gentle. The parallel
transition from clementine to amber-like base is equally smooth. I deliberately
use the term “amber-like” because in my opinion the present is just some melancholic
shades of amber. The clementine acquires some light touch of vanilla, and
becomes just lightly sweeter. It is still a cheerful fragrance, but the present
is some late summer melancholy. Like the summer is almost gone, and autumn is
just around the corner. Summer loves are gone, and soon they will be forgotten.
Eau de Mandarine Ambree is a very nice
addition to the cologne genre, and a very nice work from the master of fresh
and vivid fragrances.
Longevity / Projection
Good for EdC (5-6 hours) / Average
Suggested wearing
Daily / Spring, summer and early autumn
Alternatives
Any other Hermes cologne
4711 Acqua Colonia Mandarine &
Cardamom
Pros
Bright and vivid clementine
A welcomed addition to the rigid cologne
genre
Solid performance for EdC
Beautiful packaging
Easy to wear
Cons
Price
Rating
7.5 / 10
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