Scentrack:
Part Time – Lies in the Eyes of Love
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| Source: www.zaharoff.com |
Nowadays it is very hard to find a
balanced simplicity. Everything is extreme, intense, on steroids and devoid of
any sense. “The louder, the better” is the current motto.
Then I sniffed Signature pour Homme, and instantly
I was translocated in the past, probably something I smelt as a child during mid
80s in Europe. It was somehow a part of my already open olfactory map, yet
somehow novel, and this is the best way to describe Zaharoff Signature pour
Homme.
Signature opens with lavender as a
backbone of classic European perfumery, accompanied by gentle cardamom. There
is a hefty dose of fruitiness, probably pear, which gives a contemporary touch
to the composition. This phase strongly reminded of my favorite Frapin 1270.
While 1270 is saturated with different fruits and firmly goes to gourmand
territory, Signature pour Homme just shyly tiptoes and goes further to Oriental
phase. Then the combination of pepper and pimento (reminiscent of another
Frapin – Caravelle Epicee) gives an introduction to the oriental woods. These
woods are ancient, dark, relaxing. A perfect juxtaposition to modern way of
life. Cedar, and sandalwood are darkened with just a touch of liturgical oud and
frankincense. Still, the composition is not dense and dark like usual niche
releases. It is somehow airy, yet substantial. Old and somehow modern at the
same time. This formula is like an olfactive onion with so many peels, waiting
to be sensed. One cannot find here major note overdose. Everything is precisely
balanced and tweaked to create a new entity.
I believe I got the idea behind this creation
– to create a true modern classic. Take the part of our perfumery heritage and
paired it with modern tendencies. To unconsciously enjoy the achievements of
generations before and boldly step forward.
Thanks to the generosity
of George Zaharoff, I had an opportunity to finally test Signature pour
Homme. He even sent me a sample overseas. Thanks George!!
Longevity/ Projection
Excellent (8-10 hrs) / Moderate
Suggested Wearing
All-around player
Alternatives (only slightly reminiscent)
Frapin – 1270 + Caravelle Epicee
Mont Blanc – Individuel
Creed – Original Santal
Pros
Modern, but founded in past
Easy to wear
Great signature scent
Light and substantial
Cons
Too serious for some
Too many gentle note layers for costumers
expecting one note overdose
Rating
8.5/10
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