Scentrack
Parov Stelar – Lost in Amsterdam
Burberry London for Men was released back in 2006. as the result of Burberry’s cooperation with Inter Perfumes. The perfumer behind is Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan, best known for his Comme des Garcons and Etat Libre d’Orange works. Interestingly, during my research I found out Antoine Maisondieu is the grandson of famous Albert Camus.
I really appreciate Master Maisondieu’s
work for Burberry. He managed to give a creative twist to the standard designer
releases, and Brit for Men is another fine example of doing so.
Burberry London for Men is the classic
masculine cologne, with some Oriental ornaments. To my nose main notes are tobacco,
pine, cinnamon, lavender and opoponax, supported by soft leather, boozy accord
(possibly Port wine), amber, Guaiac wood and mimosa flower.
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| Photo by T.D. |
Classic lavender and tobacco notes are
spiced with strong cinnamon to give winter and festive atmosphere. Although not
officially listed, I easily can sense some pine and pepper notes. Maybe it’s an
unusual use of shiso mint, as Mr. Luca Turin suggested in his Guide. The
leather is just support note, not so pronounced. To me extremely important in
London is mimosa flower, which gives some soft and sweet airy nuances to the
composition.
In the drydown together with the dark
tobacco, opoponax is the main note. It has some sticky resinous qualities,
making the whole composition darker and Oriental. The Guiac wood and amber are
really mild, pity. Throughout the life of the fragrance I sense some phantom boozy
note, similar to Port wine or other desert wine like sherry.
This appropriately named fragrance
really reminds of London, a capitol of the world and former center of the
empire where sun never set. A European and Oriental fragrance combo for the
cold and rainy city. Also, this Burberry reminds me of Amsterdam, another Old
World imperial city and delicious chicken in Port wine sauce I had there.
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| Photo by T.D. |
Moderate (6-10 hrs) / Moderate
Suggested
Wearing
Daily or evening use in rainy autumn and
winter. Good for work occasions or dinners. Perfect for colder, rainy or foggy
days.
Alternatives
L’Occitane
– Eau des Baux
Festive, but sweeter tobacco
alternatives: Thierry Mugler – Pure
Havane, Victor & Rolf –
Spicebomb.
Pros
Wonderful autumn and festive time
fragrance
Great use of tobacco, pine and cinnamon
for a designer release
Price
Cons
Possible performance issues
Too “thin” (Intense version might be
perfect)
Rating
7.5
/ 10
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