Scentrack
Sting
– Desert Rose
Dzhari is a 2011 release from the fragrance
house of Phaedon. Lines Phaedon, Parfumerie Generale, Huitieme Art Parfums, and
Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection are all projects of a very prolific
perfumer - Pierre Guillaume. Master Pierre Guillaume is apparently a human
creative perpetuum mobile. His
Phaedon line is very popular within the fragrance world, mostly by two perfumes
– Rouge Avignon and Tabac Rouge.
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| Source: Fragrantica |
Dzhari is to this date the only Phaedon
fragrance I have smelt. Name Dzhari stands for the Libyan desert wind (please
see the resemblance with Chergui, a Maroccan desert wind). Opening of Dzhari is
very interesting. Semi-gourmand sweet date notes, a plum compote with cinnamon vibe
and characteristic Tonka bean are juxtaposed to dark, earthy and almost peaty
accord. Not the desert sand, but more like black soil. I really like the clash of notes which gives something daring to this
fragrance. Unfortunately, this soil accord is short lived, and after 10-15
minutes on my skin is virtually gone. I was left only with one dimensional
date/plum compote, accompanied by pale Tonka and some faint signs of cedar in
the background. That’s it, just a shadowy sweet notes lingering. A real pity, because the opening is majestic.
Maybe converting Dzhari from current Eau de Toilette to Eau de Parfum or even
Extrait would be beneficial for the performances. Nice idea, but needs more “muscles”.
Longevity / Projection
Below average (2-3 hours) / in
nanometers
Suggested wearing
Autumn, day or night (while constantly
carrying a large decant in the bag)
Alternatives
Whole Serge Lutens line
Pros
Interesting soil accord while lasted
Cons
Terrible longevity and projection
Too sweet for some
Rating
5 / 10
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