Lalique L’Insoumis – Retrox (Fabrice Pellegrin, 2016)

Scentrack

Dylan Donkin – Make a Choice

Source: Fragrantica

My girlfriend and I are both big Lalique fragrances fans. We appreciate the specific retro feel of their creations, rearranged for contemporary use. For a very decent price one could find a great smelling, distinctive fragrance. Kudos for Lalique, a cult brand in fragrance industry. Their 2016 male release, L’Insoumis, was a try to target a little bit younger audience, but somehow still devoted to their original philosophy.

Despite of the name L’Insoumis (translated rebel or unsubdued man), this fragrance is not so groundbreaking compared to many other fragrances launched, but for Lalique it is a novel direction. In my eyes, L’Insoumis is a reinterpretation of classic fougere theme for the 21^st century by using trendy notes like strong bergamot, Ambrox and alcoholic notes. Yes, Lalique managed to stay faithful to its roots and to be trendy.

L’Insoumis opens slightly sweet and coconut-like balmy with a lot going on. The sweetness is probably from rum note, although I do not perceive this rum as a proper liqueur note. Bergamot is strong in the opening, just reminding me of notorious Dior Sauvage. Soft basil is nicely paired with other notes, giving an herbal and somehow pine-like accord. Lavender, usually a central note in fougeres, is present, but subdued by the other notes. Ambrox® is, to my nose, easily noticeable, while a Firmenich’s new molecule – Clearwood® gives a soft patchouli twist to the whole composition. Lalique visually nailed the commercial, the opening smells like European pine forest in morning fog with wet, earthy undertones.

L’Insoumis is easy to wear, pleasant and refined. Some might feel disappointed due to the lack of earlier excitement, so characteristic for Lalique. It is extremely balanced after several few minutes. I would like to smell earlier version of L’Insoumis by Fabrice Pellegrin to track the process of communication between the perfumer and company.  Personally, I like L’Insoumis, and often wear to a job where I need a reliable and little bit conservative fragrance, but with some modern twist. In my opinion, it is better and more interesting than Dior Sauvage or Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue yet somehow under the radar.

Source: Fragrantica

Longevity / Projection

Solid (6-8 hours) /Average

Suggested wearing

Business / Daily use only in autumn or winter

Alternatives

Dior Sauvage – rough Ambroxane overload

Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue – easy to wear modern grey Ambroxane

Guerlain Homme – in some way share similar boozy opening

Pros

Easy to wear

Safe yet interesting

Old fashioned yet modern

Stunning bottle

Cons

Another modern Ambrox

Over refined

For some not a standard Lalique

Rating

7/10