Prada Luna Rossa Black – Contemporary Rubber (Daniela Andrier, 2018)


Personally, Prada is one of my favorite designer perfume houses. Prada Amber pour Homme is my signature fragrance, and it is clean, versatile and garners the compliments like most of Prada fragrances usually do. I truly admire the work of Daniela Andrier. Somehow she manages to create a fresh and clean fragrance without the usual banality of designer perfumes. Even when she takes an existing role model, like Dior Sauvage for Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, her final product is somehow more successful. The whole Prada line has her personal signature all over it, and it takes talent and huge work to maintain the high quality of the line.
Source: Prada
So, is the Luna Rossa Black another fragrance gem? Luna Rossa Black is a well composed likable fragrance, and I have no doubt it will have a solid success on the market during next three to five years. In my opinion, it is nothing revolutionary – it takes the idea behind legendary Bvlgari Black and reshapes it for a contemporary audience with some Ambroxan undertones. It opens with just a touch of bergamot and immediately goes to Bvlgari-like eraser rubber. Personally, I am a big fan of these rubber accords that reminds me of school. I can sense also some lavender touch as a hommage to Gaultier’s Le Male. Beneath this main rubber accord are hidden some vanilla undertones with benzoin and Tonka as a more pronounced notes. Possibly, these two notes are responsible for this amber-like olfactory mirage plus some shady and contemporary Ambroxan touch. Luna Rossa Black is very appealing fragrance. Clean, yet dark with some rubber/amber vibe. It is novel in a term of composition, but successfully deliver all the best parts of role models. Unfortunately, the performance of this EdP on my skin is subpar. It lasts only 3-4 hours with minimal projection. That’s a pity, but it seems like one can’t have it all.    

Longevity / Projection
Moderate (4-5 hours) / Subpar

Suggested wearing
Daytime or evening/ Spring and summer

Alternatives
Bvlgari Black – A legendary Menardo’s rubber creation
JPG Le Male – A truly 21st century fougere
Dior Sauvage Parfum – A darker Ambroxan bomb

Pros
Clean and dark at the same time
Appealing
Easy to wear


Cons
Subpar performance
Not overly original

Rating
7/10

Shorter version on Parfumo.net

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