Scentrack:
Kamasi
Washington – Street Fighter Mas
 |
| Source: Escentric Molecules |
At this moment Iso E Super is one of the most popular molecules in modern
perfumery. Forums and FB groups are flooded with the mentioning of Iso E Super in various contexts. So,
what is Iso E Super after all?
According to Scent and Chemistry – The Molecular World of Odors, a
beautiful book by Ohloff G, Pickenhagen W and Kraft P (Wiley-VCH, Zurich,
2012), Iso E Super or Isocyclemone E is a transparent
woody-amber odor. It was discovered by John B. Hall and James M. Sanders of IFF
in 1973. In 1990 was discovered that the main component of the mixture was weak
in smell, and the minor component arborone
(5%) gives the characteristic woody-ambery sensation. Thus Iso E Super is a mixture, not a single
molecule, which minor constituent is responsible for the smell of many modern
male compositions nowadays, and several excellent feminine creations like Lancome
Tresor by the great Sophia Grojsman or Perles de Lalique (one of my girlfriend’s
favorites) by hyper creative Nathalie Lorson.
To my nose Iso E Super is a shady and woodsy cedar-like odor with some pale
powdery, musky and sweet nuances. In my opinion the main strengths of Iso E Super are persistent, moderate
odor strength and the great characteristic to break the monotony of many woody
compositions by giving the magic sparkling touch.
In 2006 Geza Schoen decided to launch an
anti-fragrance – Molecule 01. A 100% of Iso
E Super, packed in a slick bottle. A minimalistic dedication to urban
landscape and modern world. It seems like this release won the hearts of many
perfume lovers. I personally admire Geza Schoen to launch such a minimalistic
creation. I see the beauty, but have no
emotions towards this creation. It smells like pure Iso E Super and loses that beautiful transparent and sparkling
effect that possesses in combinations with other materials like Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Man, Lalique Encre Noire, Lalique Pour Homme Equus or Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer. In my country
there is a fabric softener based on Iso E
Super which I really like, so I do not want to smell like my shirts.
Molecule 01 is an interesting concept which I highly respect, but still wish to
wear something more human.
P. S.
Happy New Year to all my readers, and hope
I will be able to write more reviews than in extremely busy 2018.
Longevity / Projection
Solid (6-8 hours) / Soft
Suggested wearing
Autumn, spring or winter / Day or night
Alternatives
Cartier Declaration – Ellena’s cardamom-Iso E Super combo
Hermes Terre d’Hermes – Ellena’s Iso E Super/vetiver minimalism
Lalique Encre Noire – dark woods
Lalique Perles – incredible femininity
with 80% of Iso E Super
Lalique pour Homme Equus – red woods +
nutmeg
Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Man – herbal Iso E Super
Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer – Iso E Super uplifts the holy incense
Dior Fahrenheit – first Iso E Super creation of my knowledge
Pros
Easy to wear
Subtle
Minimalist
Cons
Sometimes monotone
Too minimalist for some
Synthetic
Rating
6.5 / 10
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