Scentrack:
Heather Nova – Gloomy Sunday
Source: Bvlgari |
Bvlgari is mostly known by for clean and
fresh fragrances, but when they launch a darker composition one could expect
something to remember. Bvlgari Black was an iconic release, and it is so sad to
see this gem discontinued. In 2014 Bvlgari launched Man in Black. It was
created by Alberto Morillas, the perfumer that has defined most of Bvlgari’s
fragrance portfolio. Master Morillas is famous for his fresh creations, but
somehow I more prefer his darker side.
By the note list of Man in Black, one
could expect a very dark, dense and niche-like creation. However, Man in Black
is not so black. To my nose, it is more like burgundy. Man in Black is an
extremely balanced creation. Dark, yet partly fresh. Full bodied, and again,
not overpowering. Sexy, but also office friendly. It opens with a solid amount
of spices. Easily recognizable for every nose, but hard to isolate a particular
note. To my nose this complex and mellow spicy kick is made of pepper,
cardamom, nutmeg and with just a touch of cinnamon. The boozy character is also
present, and again hard to define is it a rum, Cognac, whiskey or schnaps.
Tobacco is one of the main players in this composition. It is very mature, warm
and dark. In the heart is accompanied by
almost a feminine touch of flowers – iris and tuberose, and soft suede. The
base is woody with some resinous accords. Very nice. Sexy and again easy to
wear. In fact, the whole composition is extremely easy to wear, although it is
dark in its nature. In flanker of this creation – Man Black Orient, the whole composition
is more niche like, with a strong kick of feminine tuberose and leather.
Oriental to the bone. Other similar fragrance; there are some. Viktor &
Rolf Spicebomb, but Man in Black is far superior. I also find some similarities
with a hidden gem – Lalique pour Homme Equus. Equus is woodsier and
transparent, but possesses similar sweet vibe (I cannot wait to review Equus).
To conclude, Man in Black is a very
offering from Bvlgari. It has some mysterious character, and yet suitable for
every occasion (except gym). Extremely balanced and likeable. Unfortunately with
spotty performance. A perfect gift for your dad or husband. Nothing to dislike
here.
Longevity/ Projection
Solid (6-9 hours) / Below Average
Suggested Wearing
Days (even office) or nights/ Autumn, winter
or spring
Alternatives
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb – rather loud
and unsophisticated compared to Man in Black
Bvlgari Man Black Orient – a more niche take
in the theme
Lalique Pour Homme Equus – transparent and
woodsier
Burberry London – less sweet and more
green
YSL M7 - similar drydown
YSL M7 - similar drydown
Pros
All-around player
Easy to wear and easy to like
Sexy
Nice bottle
Cons
Too polished and polite
Performance issues
Rating
7/10
Bvlgari Man in Black is an absolutely stunning fragrance that combines the masculine notes of leather, tobacco, rum, spices and mixes them seamlessly and masterfully with more sensual florals and subtle dry sweetness of the Tonka bean.
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