Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris – Stardust Over Place Vendome (Domitille Michalon Bertier & Olivier Polge, 2010)

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 Scentrack: Grace Jones – La Vie En Rose

 


Rare is the occasion when a fragrance discontinuation generates some sort of myth, and Midnight in Paris became a fragrance myth of our days. For me it was hard to see a very nice concept cruelly eliminated by the hand of an accountant. Although Midnight in Paris was not novel nor the best fragrance ever, it still created a strong cult following. In fact, it was very familiar, but somehow pushed all the right buttons. Clean and warm at the same time. Romantic like Paris. Fragile like love. Packed in a beautiful bottle with the star constellation above Place Vendome.



The composition starts with very shy bergamot combined with a strong herbal aspect resulting in an Earl Grey accord combined with a touch of rosemary. Immediately, rubber and amber accords surround the tea and propel the fragrance toward powdery and oriental territories. A very nice soft suede accord warms up the composition. The monotony of oriental and powdery notes is successfully disrupted by the pink floral touch of lily of the valley – a trick earlier deployed by Olivier Polge in Kenzo Power (2008). In my opinion, it is hard to distinct heart notes from the base ones. Suede, almonds, sweet benzoin, soft incense, resins, Tonka bean and amber are amalgamated in a big, oriental saga that lasts on my skin for ages.

Midnight in Paris shares many similarities with several Annick Menardo’s successful releases like Bvlgari Black, Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin or Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros. While Bvlgari Black, a nominally unisex creation, is a contemporary ascetic creation, Midnight in Paris, marketed for men, is lavishly expanded toward both genders. Unfortunately, both fragrances are discontinued, but the idea lives on in Daniela Andrier’s Prada Luna Rossa Black. Still,  it will be nice to see these late legends on the marker again to satisfy my fondness for romantic leathery, powdery orientals.

 

 Longevity / Projection

Good (7-10 hours) / Average

 

Suggested wearing

Fall / Daytime or Evening

 

Alternatives

Bvlgari Black – the founder of the genre

Prada Luna Rossa Black – idea replayed in a contemporary manner

Armani Code pour Homme – milky Tonka oriental

 

Pros

Romantic oriental

Beautifully crafted

Solid performance

Great bottle

 

Cons

Discontinued

Too feminine for some

 

Rating

8.5/10

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