Bvlgari Black – Dusky City (Annick Menardo, 1998)

Scentrack: Khruangbin – Mr. White

Source: httpstravelzone.bestwestern.comharley-davidson_dyna_-_harleys

Composed by Annick Menardo and released in 1998, Bvlgari Black was a trailblazer in the fragrance world. I do not know the actual reactions in 1998, but it seems to me Black grew into one of the cornerstones of modern perfumery. A true legend. At this moment it is sad to hear the growing rumors that Black is being discontinued, but it is more than possible that another of our fragrance heroes is going to be euthanized.

Why do I appreciate Black so highly? First of all, it smells niche before the niche. It was very brave of Bvlgari to release something so novel in 1998. Black is an urban unisex fragrance that reminds me of a sunset in a city. Dusky, melancholic, but somehow still realistic. It opens with just a hint of citrus, and immediately goes to the beautiful rubber eraser accord that reminds of my school days. This rubber accord is additionally deepened by a comforting vanilla-amber-Tonka combo with a hint of leather. Juxtaposed to rubber and vanilla is a sparkling (almost peppery) green tea accord that gives the whole other dimension to the composition. Strange how these completely different tunes are coherent in this composition. Later this similar theme was replayed in Body Kouros (YSL, Annick Menardo), Midnight in Paris (VC&A, Olivier Polge), Luna Rossa Black (Prada, Daniela Andrier).

The composition seems simple and linear, but still possesses several somber layers. Black is perfect to wear with a leather jacket, while strolling in a city. The performance is mediocre, while I remember it back in a day as a more potent fragrance. Still, hoping that Bvlgari will not discontinue this dark urban gem for the sake of generations to come.

     

Longevity/ Projection

Solid (8-10 hours) / Moderate

Suggested Wearing

Fall, winter and spring / Nighttime    

Alternatives

YSL Body Kouros – another Menardo’s take on a theme

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris – less somber floral suede, unfortunately discontinued

Prada Luna Rossa Black – homage to Black, more concise and straight forward  

Pros

Still very modern

Easy to wear yet different

Dark and wearable

Cons

Discontinued

Too dark for some

Not for rubber haters

Pale current formulation

Rating

9/10 (vintage version 10/10)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all my readers around the world :-)